8. HOW DO I INSTALL NEW BATTERIES?
Last Updated on July 11, 2004
While working with car or deep cycle
lead-acid batteries, please wear glasses to protect
your eyes in the unlike event of an explosion.
In a recent marketing study in the
U.S., consumers (or non-professional battery installers)
installed almost 60% of the approximately 82 million
replacement car batteries that were made in 1999. Car
batteries were the fourth most popular item purchased
among auto parts. The same study indicated that Wal-Mart
(EverStart) has surpassed Sears (DieHard)
as the number one car battery seller in the United
States with Auto Zone (DuraLast) as the most
popular of the U.S. auto parts stores for car batteries.
Below are some questions you need to
ask yourself because the installation of a replacement
battery and disposal of the old one is usually included
in the purchase price at some auto parts and battery
stores:
- A car battery weights between 30 and
60 pounds (13.6 and 27.3 Kg) and deep cycle battery
can weigh several hundred pounds (or kilos), so do
I want to install it myself?
- What do I do with the old battery if
not exchanged for the new one? This is especially
important if the batteries are not lead-acid, for
example, Ni-Cad. The proper disposal of a non
lead-acid battery could cost more that a new battery.
- How can I save the radio station presets,
emissions computer settings, or security codes before
disconnecting the old starting battery
- Do I want to risk an injury or holes
in my clothes?
If you decide to proceed, following
is a list of easy steps to replace your battery and
assumes that there the electrical and charging systems
are in good condition:
8.1. Fully charge and test the
new battery. (Please see Section 9 for
charging and Section 4 for testing the battery.)
8.2. If a non-sealed wet battery, check
the electrolyte levels after the battery has
reached room temperature and "top off" to the proper
level with distilled, deionized or demineralized water
as required, but do not over fill. The plates
need to be covered with electrolyte at all times to
prevent an internal battery explosion or sulfation. Please
see Section 3.2 for
electrolyte fill levels.
8.3. Thoroughly wash and clean the old
battery, battery terminals and tray (case or box) with
warm water to minimize problems from acid or corrosion.
Please see Section 3.4 for more information on corrosion.
8.4. Mark all of the battery cables so
you will know how to reconnect to proper battery post
or terminal and check the cables and cable terminals
closely for damage. A loose terminal connection, bad
crimp or cut cable will cause a high resistance and
a large voltage drop when high current is running though
it. If the cables are reversed, you can do extensive
damage to your electrical system.
8.5. For Car battery installations, to
prevent voltage spikes from damaging electronic equipment
such as the emissions computer and to save the radio
station presets, emissions computer and security code
settings, temporarily connect a second 12-volt battery
in parallel to the electrical system before disconnecting
the first battery. If active when the key is off, a
cigarette lighter plug can be used to easily connect
a 12-volt parallel battery. Cigarette lighter adapters
are available at electronics stores and "Computer Memory
Saver" with a 9-volt battery are available at some
auto parts stores, like JC Whitney for about $10.
8.6. Turn off all the electrical
switches and breakers and electronic and electrical
accessories and appliances. Without using a hammer
on the battery cable terminals or posts, remove the NEGATIVE
(-) cable first because this will minimize the
possibility of shorting the battery when you remove
the other cables. Secure the negative cable so that
it cannot "spring" loose and make electrical contact.
Next remove the POSITIVE (+) cable.
Please remember that the battery terminal connector
on the end of the POSITIVE (+) battery
cable maybe "hot" (or have voltage on it), so put it
in a small plastic bag or cloth around it so that it
will not touch the metal frame or engine components.
8.7. Carefully lift the old battery out
and dispose of it by exchanging it when you buy your
new replacement battery or by taking it to a recycling
center. For additional information on recycling batteries,
go to http://www.batterycouncil.org/recycling.html.
Please remember that batteries contain large amounts
of harmful lead, acid and other chemicals, so take
great care with safety and please dispose of your old
battery properly to protect our fragile environment.
8.8. After removing the old battery, insure
that the battery tray or box, cable terminals, and
connectors are clean. Auto parts or battery stores
sell an inexpensive brass wire brush that will clean
the inside of post terminal clamps and the post terminals.
If the terminals, cables or hold-down brackets are
corroded, replace them. A broken hold down bracket
will cause excessive battery vibration and that will
cause a premature failure. Replace any battery cables
that are corroding, swelling or other damage with equal
or larger diameter cable. Larger cable is better
because there is less voltage drop.
Please see Exide's Voltage Drop in Cables for additional information.
(http://www.exide.com/products/trans/na/battery_care/voltage_drops_in_cables.pdf)
8.9. Check the positive and negative terminal
markings on the replacement battery and position it
so that the NEGATIVE (-) cable will connect
to the NEGATIVE (-) terminal. Reversing the
polarity of the electrical system can severely damage
or DESTROY it. It can even cause the battery to explode.
8.10. After replacing and tightening the
hold-down bracket, remove any plastic caps or covers
on the terminals of the replacement battery, and reconnect
the cables in reverse order, that is, attach the POSITIVE (+) cable first and the NEGATIVE (-) cable
last. For General Motors-type side terminals, check
the length of the bolt and do not over tighten,
or you could crack the battery case. Connections need
to be periodically checked for corrosion (or oxidation)
and retightened, including the grounding cables to
the vehicle's frame and engine block.
8.11. To prevent corrosion, coat the terminals
and exposed metal parts. Please see Section 3.4 for more information on corrosion.
8.12. Remove the parallel battery and
rest all the switches and breakers, if required.
8.13. Test the new battery by starting
your engine or with an electrical load.
Some vehicles are have battery electrolyte
level sensors. For Toyota and Nissan, use the sensor
bypass information at http://www.exide.com/products/trans/na/battery_care/toyota_nissan.pdf
and for Mazda use http://www.exide.com/products/trans/na/battery_care/toyota_nissan.pdf.
A good source of information for measuring maximum
cable and connector voltage drops can be found at Exide's Caring
For Your Battery (http://www.exide.com/products/trans/na/battery_care/battery_care.html)
Wire sizing and cable lengths are
very important because wiring that is not large enough
or different lengths will cause excessive voltage
loss and undercharged batteries or, in some cases,
a fire. Batteries connected in parallel should
have the same cable lengths and size from the charging
or discharging source. Use of buss bars are highly
recommended for larger deep cycle battery installations.
A good source of information of wire sizing can be
found at http://www.solarexpert.com/Photowiring.html.
Using properly sized fuses or circuit breakers is
also very important because they can provide protection
for the wiring from over heating and for the electrical
appliances. Series, parallel, and series-parallel
battery connection wiring diagrams can be found in Section 7.3.2. Connections will need to be periodically
retightened. A good source of information on measuring
for maximum voltage drops can be found at Exide's Caring
For Your Battery.
Insure there is adequate ventilation
for the batteries so the gas can dissipate while
recharging and the batteries can stay cooler. In
other words, do NOT use sealed battery boxes,
even with sealed Gel Cell or AGM VRLA batteries. Some
batteries will require up to 30 "preconditioning" cycles
before they will produce their rated capacity. This
is because the acid needs to fully penetrate the
pores of the newly formed plates.
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